Another several hundred kilometers through Turkey... with pictures!

by Chris Beauchamp

While Laura has been blog­ging her socks off, I haven’t gotten around to putting much up in a while. So here goes: a photo update on where we are and what we’ve been up to.

Broadly speak­ing, we are making our way down the Aegean coast of Turkey. We ducked inland at places like Bergama and Pamukkale, but will be staying closer to the coast in the next few days (weeks?) as we head around the south­east­ern corner of the country and con­tinue along the Mediterranean coast, before going inland again to visit Cappadocia and Eastern Turkey.

Bergama (site of ancient Pergamon)

We hiked 5km uphill to the akropolis of Pergamon. This was one of the views that rewar­ded us near the top. The ancient ruins are dra­mat­ic­ally perched on the top of a moun­tain over­look­ing modern Bergama. We enjoyed the ruins and the modern city very much.

The gravity-defying theatre at Pergamon, with modern Bergama far below. You can see our hotel if you look closely. It’s the one with the red chimney... Okay, no you can’t. But still, it’s down there somewhere.

The neigh­bour­hood we stayed in was a maze of streets like this one. It was charm­ing, if a bit con­fus­ing to navigate.

Another street scene in Bergama.

And another. This time with Bonus Old Lady!

Pamukkale and Hierapolis

Pamukkale was like a bit of vaca­tion from our vaca­tion, as it were. Hot springs, walks in the Turkish agri­cul­tural heart­land, being chased by an enorm­ous barking sheepdog–with his taut muscles, big teeth, and eyes like  a rabid were­wolf. Yeah, it was bliss.

Laura dips her feet at Pamukkale. We ducked inland to visit this site, where Roman ruins lie at the top of a mag­ni­fi­cent ridge covered in built-up calcium depos­its from thou­sands of years of natural hot spring activ­ity. Yeah, it was as nice as it sounds.

One of the travertine pools on the Pamukkale ridge. Pamukkale trans­lates as “cotton castle,” for reasons too obvious too explain.

The “Antique Pool” among the Hierapolis ruins of Pamukkale. Although it cost us about $15 CDN on top of the $15 we paid to get into the site, we had to swim in the nat­ur­ally warm waters of the pool among the sub­merged stones and columns. These col­lapsed into the waters due to an earth­quake about 1300 years ago (if I’m remem­ber­ing cor­rectly). Because we are trav­el­ing in the off-season, we had the pool to ourselves for a bit.

Laura dips her feet, AGAIN. Sheesh. She’s always taking breaks. The water was a pleas­ant 30 degrees or so. It was magic.

Some couple enjoys the view from the theatre at Hierapolis, above of the white travertine ridge. I like this shot.

We saw some tombs over­look­ing the valley. This one was the first mound tomb I’ve ever been in. Spooooky!

Tombs down low. Tombs up high. There were tombs all over the place. I think I may have more to say about tombs in another post.

The next day, we struck off blindly into the Turkish coun­tryside for a bit of a hike. We saw several flocks of sheep and their shep­herds. As we were walking through the barren scrub, we sud­denly crossed a line and were in green, irrig­ated grass. I turned around and shot this in the dir­ec­tion from which we came.

I’m no Ansel Adams, but here’s another black and white land­scape from our walk. For the photo nerds: the vign­et­ting is from stack­ing an ND8 filter with my CPL.

Another land­scape from that day. Believe it or not, these are all sep­ar­ate olive trees.

I’ve never been the greatest land­scape pho­to­grapher but I hope to get better. We found this cairn at the top of a long, gently sloping farmer’s field. We spec­u­lated whether it marks someone’s grave. I think it prob­ably does. From here, we could see all the way across the valley, some 60 to 100km away. I can think of worse places to be buried.

Afrodisias

We took a daytrip from Pamukkale to visit an ancient city called Afrodisias. Named after the (Greek?) goddess of love, Aphrodite, the place holds the remains of a once great temple where all sorts of sordid orgies and whatnot went on. All in the name of reli­gion, of course. The Christians con­ver­ted it into a church in the first mil­len­nium some­time, and must have had a few sleep­less nights puri­fy­ing the place. Anyway, I’ll let Laura put up some of her pics from there of the ruins and whatnot. I was more inter­ested in taking pic­tures of things like frogs and trees apparently.

In all honesty though, you can only find ancient ruins pho­to­graph­ic­ally inspir­ing for so long. Eventually they all start to blend together a bit. It is much more inter­est­ing to put the camera down and instead try to imagine what the place may have been like in ancient times.

We found these frogs in the flooded bottom of the Odeon. There were dozens of them swim­ming among the maple leaves.

Dozens, I say!

Another Ansel Adams wannabe shot.

And one last ancient ruin: The stadium of Afrodisias is cer­tainly one of the best pre­served Roman sta­di­ums in the world. This thing is HUGE. Laura is the tiny black spec you can see just to the left of centre in the open green space.

Here’s a crop of the last picture to show you I’m not joking. The place is huge. Like, ‘it-could-seat-80,000-people’ huge. By the way, they held gla­di­ator games here. Men and beasts com­peted on the field of battle for the glory and esteem of the people. Or maybe it was just grue­some enter­tain­ment. Either way, it was pretty badass.

That’s all for now. See you next time! We finally have enough exper­i­ence (and photos) to put up a post about Turkish food. Mmmmmm.

(Also, we like com­ments. It’s really easy, just click below.)

Related posts:

  1. Animals and Nature of Olympos, Turkey
  2. The Basilica Cistern in Istanbul, Turkey
  3. Quick Update from Dikili
  4. Cappadocia is Turkey’s version of Canada’s bad­lands without the dino­saur bones
  5. Crossing the border from Turkey into Iran
  6. Troy, it’s real
  7. Photo gallery of Turkey