Category Archives: Vietnam

Cu Chi Tunnels from the Vietnam War

Chris touch­ing an AK47 for the first time. In the dis­tance you can make out the faint outline of trees and a dirt wall with sand­bags on top. I was happy to see the shoot­ing range had taken these pre­cau­tions. They had four pic­tures of dif­fer­ent animals you could try to aim for.

Chris and I have reached our new home, Grande Prairie. Today the sun was shining on the fluffy cumulus clouds and the air smelt of the end of summer as I looked upon the solid yellow trees. It was our first full day in Grande Prairie.

Chris and I visited the local TELUS store to find out the plans and inform­a­tion regard­ing pur­chas­ing an iPhone. My mind felt jumbled and con­fused. The over man­i­cured, over made-up woman provided us with the worst cus­tomer service pos­sible, but that was really no sur­prise since it was TELUS.

Chris and I then roamed many aisles in a nearby store looking for tooth­paste, hair­spray, razors and shaving cream. The prices made us both over­whelmed, depressed and stressed out. We had to stick together just help support one another through the aisles.

Canada is expens­ive com­pared to S.E. Asia. I knew that. I just didn’t know the tech­no­lo­gical depend­ence, out­rageous prices and running out of money would make me feel this stressed out. I have faith that in one month I’ll be getting back into the rhythm of Canadian life. I also have no doubt north­ern life will con­tinue to enter­tain and educate me for the next couple of years.

Laura inside part of the Cu Chi tunnel system.

We have both exper­i­enced both culture shock and extreme jet lag. The very first thing I noticed during our layover in L.A. and then back in Canada was, “Men are huge here.” Of course this is com­pared to the men of S.E. Asia. Until almost one week after getting back we were sleep­ing for only four hours a night or not falling asleep until 6:00 or 8:00 am! I have never flown across the Pacific Ocean before. It’s def­in­itely a LOT harder to deal with jet lag coming from S.E. Asia than it is from Europe.

Cu Chi Tunnels

I know I will have many more stories about Grande Prairie but for now here’s a com­pletely unre­lated story about a place in Vietnam.

When we visited Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam we took a day tour to a place called, Cu Chi Tunnel Historic Vestige Site. It is a maze of under­ground tunnels located 70 kilo­met­ers from the city. The tunnels were carved by the north Vietnamese during the Vietnam War (1955−1975).

An American tank left over from the Vietnam War. Today tour­ists climb all over its rusty body.

From the surface the tunnels were com­pletely cam­ou­flaged. The entrances were kept only large enough for the Vietnamese to fit in or out and were, of course, also cam­ou­flaged. Needless to say, American sol­diers found their way in the tunnels but the vast major­ity of them prob­ably never found their way out.

An entrance to the Cu Chi tunnel system. I would not be able to fit my hips through this. Just look at the size of it com­pared to my foot! As you can imagine, this was a great advant­age for Vietnamese sol­diers. If American sol­diers did manage to get into the tunnels the Vietnamese has con­struc­ted smaller bottle-neck areas where they would get stuck.

Another entrance to the tunnel system. During the war all entrances were cam­ou­flaged with foliage.

The north Vietnamese also con­struc­ted many dif­fer­ent types of booby-traps in the sur­round­ing land­scape as well as inside the tunnels.

This is just one style of booby-trap the Vietnamese sol­diers used. To the left of Chris you can see some grass going up ver­tic­ally. This grass is attached to a board which has one axis that allows the board to rotate like a revolving door. If someone steps on the grass covered door, the door swings down and the person falls onto mul­tiple bamboo spikes. The spikes are 2 to 4 feet long.

When we walked along the modern-day paths of the Cu Chi Tunnels museum we were sur­roun­ded by lush forest.  It was peace­ful, beau­ti­ful and quite hard to imagine the land­scape and its people engulfed in war until I heard a loud “BANG!” I stopped imme­di­ately and squat­ted down a little.

Gunfire?” I thought. Sure enough it was.  I’ve got to admit, the real, live gunfire from the on-site shoot­ing range really added to the authen­ti­city of the his­tor­ical war area.

At the end of touring the tunnels we had the oppor­tun­ity to pick a gun and shoot it. Without hes­it­a­tion Chris said, “An AK47.”

How many bullets should we get?” I asked.

Um, 3 or 4 each might be okay.”

We asked one of the four men in military-like uni­forms, behind the desk, for 8 bullets.

They come in tens for the AK47,” he replied. And before we could fully answer, “Okay”, after handing over our $15 USD, we were rushed off with one of the men in uniform.  Only seconds later I found myself in a con­crete hallway with two guns mounted at each shoot­ing station. I looked out across a dirt field with high dirt walls on either side and a huge dirt wall at the end with sand bags on top. Four pic­tures of animals were evenly spaced in front of the dirt wall.

The man who showed us which gun to shoot and who instruc­ted me how to shoot the gun by saying, “Aim at the cow”, before he took 4 steps away from me.

Suddenly someone was firing down the hall. I thought Chris was about to shoot but I didn’t have my camera set­tings ready. I couldn’t hear him or the man well and before I knew it another person was shoot­ing an auto­matic machine gun down the oppos­ite dir­ec­tion of the shoot­ing hall. Needless to say, I was flustered.  I barely managed to get my camera set­tings so I could film Chris and everytime a shot was fired the camera and I jumped a little.

Pathetic. I’d make a hor­rible soldier....well a hor­rible, untrained soldier.

This is me worried I won’t be able to get my hips through the tiny entrance to the tunnel system.

Eeeekkkk. I’m I going to fit?

Now that I’ve got my hips through, I’m piling extra leaves on top of the lid to my entrance to ensure I’m cam­ou­flaged when I’m fully underground.

This entrance was enlarged so tour­ists could fit inside. It’s true. Vietnamese men and women are a lot smaller than me, so imagine an American soldier with gear trying to fit down the entrance.

I must keep my arms and elbows straight in order to get into the very small entrance of the tunnel. The leaf covered lid provides camouflage.

I’ve almost got my cam­ou­flaged lid back on, and then there’s nothing to do but wait and hope the enemy didn’t see me going inside.

This special shoe was worn by the women who carried the dirt from the tunnels to the river. Their toes were slipped into the nar­rower part but the sole of the shoe made it look like they were walking the oppos­ite dir­ec­tion. So smart.

Chris just about to exit the Cu Chi tunnel system. This part of the system has been enlarged for tour­ists to crawl through (optional of course).

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The War Remnants Museum in Vietnam

The War Remnants Museum exterior.

While in Ho Chi Minh City we visited the War Remnants Museum which focuses on the Vietnam War and the result of chem­ical warfare, spe­cific­ally the use of a chem­ical called Agent Orange. I strongly recom­mend this museum. It only costs about $2 to enter. They have an impress­ive col­lec­tion of tanks, planes, heli­copters and artil­lery outside of the museum. Inside you will view unfor­get­table and dis­turb­ing photographs.

If you are American you might feel some­what attacked while vis­it­ing this museum. It is import­ant to remem­ber who eyes and per­spect­ive the museum is told from and that in every war no one ever likes their enemy, (oth­er­wise there prob­ably wouldn’t be wars).

Airplane outside of the museum.

Tank and heli­copter outside of the museum.

The museum is mostly pho­to­graphs and write-ups. There are abso­lutely no inter­act­ive exhib­its or videos. Nonetheless the subject matter cap­tiv­ates vis­it­ors. I have been to hun­dreds of museums and worked in a mil­it­ary museum for over two years and unless there was a special func­tion it was NEVER as busy as this museum. Every museum wishes for a daily attend­ance like The War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Nothing is com­plete without a little pro­pa­ganda. The entire museum was very Anti-American.

More people on the second floor of the museum.

I found that by paint­ing images of people next to the guns it didn’t let vis­it­ors look at them as “cool” objects. They are killing machines and that’s all there is to it.

More people! Amazing attendance.

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Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

We’re in Bangkok right now souvenir shop­ping and site seeing by day and hanging out with our friend Ben, who we met during The Gibbon Experience, by night.

Chris looking hand­some in front of some water lilies and a shrine.

This sign was part of a travel agents sign in Ho Chi Minh City. After using Lonely Planet for seven months I’ve learnt there are a lot of things it doesn’t tell you and a lot of things that are wrong. Needless to say I chuckled at this one.

Yet again, it’s the final count­down. After roughly 650 meals in res­taur­ants over the past seven months we only have about 9 more res­taur­ant meals to go.  The last three weeks have flown by.  I have trouble remem­ber­ing if I saw some­thing in Vietnam or Cambodia unless I think really, really hard.  To help me remem­ber I have kept a rough journal through­out our entire journey where I noted what we bought, prices, what we saw and any other notes or feel­ings. I also, of course, have my pho­to­graphs to remind me of our journey.

The locals don’t refer to the city as Ho Chi Minh City, instead they use the pre-war name, Saigon.

While walking through a city park we found hun­dreds of pots with water lilies. They were as tall as my chest.

I wish I could grow these in my back­yard pond in Grande Prairie. Not that I have a pond or even a back­yard for that matter.

Bushes carved like a dragon!

While in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) we decided to visit the zoo.  It cost a little more than $1 dollar each.  I have been to the Calgary Zoo count­less times.  It is the zoo of my child­hood.  It is the zoo I measure all other zoos to, so when we strolled through the jungle-like zoo in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, I was cap­tiv­ated by the variety and size of plants and animals.  I was also proud of the edu­ca­tion and con­ser­va­tion efforts of the Calgary Zoo.  The Ho Chi Minh Zoo has none that were obvious or appar­ent.  On many levels it is a sad exper­i­ence to visit the Ho Chi Minh Zoo.

With only a col­our­ful picket fence sep­ar­at­ing vis­it­ors from goats a lot of carrot eating goes on here.

Give me that carrrrrrot”

I was actu­ally that close to this baby hippo. The only thing between us was a waist high fence. If I leaned over it and stretched out my arm as far as pos­sible I could prob­ably touch him. As you can see he’s waiting for a tourist to throw another carrot in this mouth.

I unfor­tu­nately have no idea what kind of bird this is. He looks part dino­saur with a turkey neck and a body like an ostrich, but with shorter legs. Pretty hey?

Okay, I wasn’t this close to this friendly cro­codile. I used my 50mm Canon. Look at the detail and hard folds of his skin. Amazing!

See the plastic bottle next to the bear? While we stood staring at this sad looking creature one of the other spec­tat­ors tried to hit the bear in the face with the empty bottle. I glared at them. How could they do that? I wanted to slap them. Our hearts were quite heavy as we saw this type of beha­vior from vis­it­ors. I wish I spoke Vietnamese so I could hold edu­ca­tion work­shops, because obvi­ously there are none.

A giant chain keeps this beau­ti­ful animal from walking around. He stretches his trunk out to vis­it­ors who throw him pieces of bamboo. This was the saddest thing we saw in the zoo.

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The Great Pho-Tasting Expedition of 2010

Seungthew (taxi in an-open back pickup truck with bench seating) from Luang Prabang to the local water­fall. Laura will have a post about this day trip some­time soon. (photo by her, of course)

Hey guys,

Laura and I are finally in Vietnam. As many of you already know, she started showing some symp­toms of dengue fever when we were in Luang Prabang, Laos. Our ori­ginal plan was to take a bus from there to Hanoi, in the north of Vietnam, but Dengue is not some­thing you want to mess around with, and since Luang Prabang (and most of Laos) has vir­tu­ally zero modern health­care, we decided to head to the capital Vientiane instead. Luckily, by the time we got there, Laura’s fever had passed and her other symp­toms calmed down. Facing another epic (24−30 hour) bus ride to get from Vientiane to Vietnam, we caved and bought some plane tickets via the north of Thailand to Ho Chi Minh City instead (via Bangkok).

We are rapidly running out of time on this little journey of ours, and the con­sequence is that we will be blitz­ing through south­ern Vietnam and Cambodia, giving these coun­tries far less time than they deserve (but at least seeing a thing or two along the way). Can you believe that two weeks from tomor­row we’ll be landing in Vancouver? We sure can’t.
We’ve been laying low for the past week or so, mostly chilling in hotels while mon­it­or­ing Laura’s health (she really is all better), so we’re going to be com­pens­at­ing over the next couple of weeks, trying to get out and see as much as pos­sible. Should be good for the bloggin’.

Cheers,
Chris

p.s. — “Pho” is Vietnamese soup, some­thing we ate at least once a week when we lived in Calgary, and one of our favour­ite foods in the world. We had our first bowl last night, and wholly goddamn mine was spicy! Don’t under­es­tim­ate the diced hot peppers that come on the side.

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